Phase One Italy: Nurture

After two years of trying to realise this Italian adventure, we arrived in Milan on September 5th, albeit with heavy hearts from the loss of our mother (my mother-in-law) and, soon after, one of my dearest uncles.

Life is so confusing at times. It will be bittersweet from now on.

Feeling far from celebratory, we decided to skip Venice. We thought to first nurture ourselves, so we took a quick Milan tram ride for an espresso in the glorious Marchesi in Milan’s Galerie Vitoria Emanuele II.

By lunch, we were on a fast train to Verona—regional town hopping is easy in Italy, even for my pelvis.

In Verona, Il Barbiere di Siviglia welcomed us in the town’s glorious Arena—a Roman amphitheatre that can seat up to 15,000 people. It was bliss to share the vibe with thousands of culture-loving individuals who showed their love by dressing to the nines for the evening.

It was an inspiring atmosphere that also helped deal with the jet lag… mostly. We didn’t embarrass ourselves, but we did come close a few times…

After a great night’s sleep at the Hotel Colomba D’Oro, which had honoured our few cancellation requests over the past two years with a most polite attitude, our next task was nourishment—not a difficult one in Italy.

Aside from the art and architecture, the food keeps me returning to Italy. I come for the polenta, tomatoes, Burrata, seafood, pasta, hospitality (served with every drink) and the drinks themselves, and I don’t mean the Mimosas and prosecco but the Olive oil that arrives at the table with the bread as soon as you place your food order. It goes on my bread and in the fabulous Italian style Insalata Mista—mixed green leaves, radicchio, tomatoes, carrot, and never any cucumber!

I’m allergic to the Curcubit family (Cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, etc.) and don’t like olives, so this is my salad heaven. And that I get to use as much olive oil as I like is the icing on my cake… not that you need much olive oil in Italy, as it’s extra virgin and the richest tasting.

Truffles are also on offer in Italy at the moment. I’ve had them on pasta, on eggs, and with risotto. We are nourished through and through.

My next job was to scout the urban scenes. On our last visit, I became familiar with Verona and worked out my art routine–a baste of my favourite colour, Titanium Buff, on my precut linen, and I’m set to sketch the scenes that call me. 

I’d love to paint there and then, but it’s too difficult for me, and I’d only get a little done before reaching my physical and fatigue limits. So, instead, I opt to draw in situ and complete my painting in the studio. It works for me.

Although my work direction has changed this year, I can’t pass up the experience of drawing in the streets—it’s a dream to do this in Italy. 

With two amazing people manning the Queenscliff Gallery (QG) fort and Ms Olive home with my dear friend and pet sitter extraordinaire, Jodie, we maxed out a four-week work holiday.

Self-employment and small business ownership mean you’re always working. And the arts are having a tough time at the moment.

This brings me to my mental kick up the bottom—make art, Soula; patrons are waiting. This thrills me.

Honestly, I love the idea that people are interested in and/or want to buy my work (and do). I sold all but two of the Italian facades but two of the Italian facades from my 2023 exhibition Here and There. I also recently sold my first work from my upcoming December exhibition months prior – encouraging!

So, make more art, I will! An artist never stops working – a curse and a blessing.

I write this update from 800m up on a hill in Cortona, staying at a friend’s Tuscan home to die for, with Donnie the Donkey braying in the background — you need to see the Insta Reel. 

In the coming weeks, I plan to visit Montepulciano, San Gimignano, Bologna, Venice, and Milan.

You would have heard of Cortona and relate it to the book and film, Under the Tuscan Sun. Did you know Frances Mayes wrote that here, where she (and we!) were enjoying our morning espresso just the other day? This was while my friend was in her weekly clay-making class. 

Cortona is a fabulous town for nurture (eat at La Dispensa or the amazing La Loggetta) and I feel drenched with inspiration. After having completed two Cortona-inspired stories for my upcoming exhibition I thought I was done with the town. But after this visit I found myself sketching in the back streets again… it’s just too beautiful.

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